Actually, the best way is to wash the surface first and then dry it. That way you are sure that some of the scratches aren’t being hidden. But an easier and less messy way; is to spray the surface with WIPE DOWN Matte Paint Detailer. And then wipe down the panel with the MULTI-FIBER cloth. After cleaning the surface, inspect it for any scratches or imperfections that have been missed. This should be done occasionally to inspect your progress, and before using a different product, or pad.

Why couldn’t you just use the MIST-N-SHINE? I know that you explained the differences between the WIPE DOWN and the MIST-N-SHINE earlier; but wouldn’t it work here too?

Actually some guys do, but they’re defeating the purpose because the MIST-N-SHINE actually helps to hide the swirl marks and fine line scratches. While the WIPE DOWN will remove the oils left on the surface from compounding. The WIPE DOWN has no enhancement qualities. But the MIST-N-SHINE adds a gloss and a slick feel. I guess if you wanted to hide the marks instead of removing them, that’s what you’d do.

Could the WIPE DOWN be used for other cleaning jobs or is it just for the buffing process?

The WIPE DOWN is not an all-purpose cleaner like the POWER CLEAN. It has a less aggressive cleaning ability that works best to remove dust and oily residue from the compounds.

 Other uses would be for removing the oily residue buildup from repeated wax or detailer applications at car shows. Sometimes enthusiasts will trailer their car to a show for years, applying waxes at every show and never washing them. The WIPE DOWN will remove the oily residue without taking off all the shine and protection.

Applying decals or vinyl lettering onto paint or glass is much easier when first wetting both surfaces with the WIPE DOWN, applying the vinyl and then pressing out the liquid with a squeegee. It eliminates the frustration caused by wrinkling, repositioning and air bubbles.

It has also been reported to work well on a satin primer finish without getting blotchy.

What is a satin primer finish?

Satin primer is basically a car without paint. It is just primed. Some of the street rodder guys want the “50’s in progress look” and run their car on the street with primer. Using the MIST-N-SHINE on the primer just doesn’t work.

OK, you have done your buffing, wiped it down and done the inspection. It looks great! Is that it?

Using the FINISH CUT compound and pad combo will do an excellent job, and some shops have told me; that’s all they do on the light colors. Although, if done properly it will look great; there is more that is needed. That’s where the foam pad comes in.

After you’ve buffed out the sand scratches and imperfections, you want to remove any marks the blend pad may have left and take it to a higher level of gloss.

This is another part of the WIZARDS technique that’s a little different. Not using a foam pad, but using the same product with two different pads. The traditional method is to use a different product with each pad.

Now you’re going to use the same FINISH CUT compound with a foam pad. How do you determine which foam pad to use?

It really depends on the type of paint you’re working with and how fresh or cured it is.

The YELLOW cutting pad is made from a high density foam that is very stiff. The WHITE polishing pad is not as stiff and will not have as much cutting power. And the GRAY polishing pad is very soft.

In almost all situations, the YELLOW foam is the pad you want to use after buffing with the polyester-wool blend pad (the FINISH CUT PAD). Because all paints are not the same, sometimes the WHITE foam does a better job. For example: If the paint is really soft and more sensitive to scratching, the softer WHITE foam would not leave light scratches like the YELLOW foam. Once again, it comes down to looking at the surface and paying attention to what you’re doing.

What about the GRAY foam pad; where does that fit in?

Its use is pretty much limited to applying the SHINE MASTER Polish & Sealant. The GRAY foam is so soft that is doesn’t provide any cutting power like the YELLOW or WHITE foam pads.

Only on an extremely rare occasion would I use the FINISH CUT compound with the GRAY pad. It would be in a situation where nothing else was working to eliminate the fine line scratches when buffing. In thousands of demonstrations in Body Shops I have only used the GREY foam pad with the compound a couple times.

What would cause the paint, in those situations, to be so sensitive?

It can be a variety of things. The most obvious is improper mixing ratios of the paint, solvent and catalyst, using the wrong solvent, or mixing components that aren’t compatible, such as different brands or generic catalyst. Drying time between coats, humidity and temperature certainly have an effect as well.

All right, you’ve completed buffing with the FINISH CUT pad, and have chosen the YELLOW foam pad. What’s next?

It’s simple. You follow the same process, with the same FINISH CUT compound, only using the foam pad. That’s what’s different. We recommend one compound with two different pads. Using this process you will never have the problem of pulling a more aggressive abrasive into the next step. That’s exactly what happens a lot of times (with other systems) when the operator doesn’t wash down the area before going to the next step.

Apply the FINISH CUT compound generously to one spot on the panel. You start out with a spot about the size of a 50 cent piece, or larger. Remember; if the pad is new, it’s going to take more compound to load the pad. This is true with the foam as well as the wool pads, because they are both more absorbent when new.

Now, when you use the YELLOW foam pad for the first time, it may seem almost too stiff. It will soften up after it’s used a little bit, and feel more comfortable.

Something you can do to break it in is to run a piece of 60 or 80 grit sandpaper over the surface as you run the buffer, following the concave shape. You can also round off the pointed edge of the pad if you don’t like it.

After using the sandpaper and after using compound, you always want to spur the foam pads clean, with a WIZARDS CLEANING BRUSH. This is a stiff bristle, nylon brush that won’t tear or damage the pads.

When this process of the FINISH CUT and two pads are followed correctly, it will produce show quality results every time. It’s the key to a super shine and swirl mark elimination.

You’ve mentioned swirl marks a number of times; what causes swirl marks?

Swirl marks can be caused by a few things. Generally a scratch of some kind caused by something abrasive rubbed into the paint. There is a difference between a swirl mark, pad marks and compound residue. They all can leave the paint with a poor appearance.

Deeper swirls are usually generated by using a compound with a very course abrasive that doesn’t break down well. Swirls can be the result of a sloppy buffing technique as I mentioned earlier, or simply not cleaning the surface properly between steps. Pad marks are generally not as deep and are caused by dry buffing: continuing to buff after the compound is gone from the surface. It’s also a good idea to wash and spur the pads when they become matted down and loaded with product.

Residue is just that. It looks like a panel full of swirls; if the compound is removed from the paint surface it usually looks good. Residue isn’t really a problem; it’s usually brought up when someone is judging the work before it’s completed.

Well, after the FINISH CUT and the two pads, it looks great. There really isn’t a need for a hand glaze to remove swirls, is there?

No, if it’s done properly, you don’t need a hand glaze. However it is a good idea to finish the job, with an application of the SHINE MASTER. This will give it a good protective coat, and make it shine even more!

Is this where you would use the GRAY foam pad, with the SHINE MASTER?

Yes you can, but if you do the compounding properly all you really need is a quick hand application with the foam HAND PAD. It’s much faster with less effort.

If the technician chooses to buff the SHINE MASTER, it should be used more sparingly than the compounds. It doesn’t have the abrasive like the compounds and is a lot more slippery, so it will spread out quickly and cover a larger area. You would still use the same approach; you just wouldn’t use as much product.

Couldn’t you finish the job with the MIST-N-SHINE in place of the SHINE MASTER, for the final detail?

Sure, some guys like to use the MIST-N-SHINE for the final step. That works great to clean up the whole vehicle; remove any dust and compound residue and give the vehicle a super gloss all at the same time. It’s actually a little faster than the SHINE MASTER. The only difference is that the SHINE MASTER will offer more of a long-term protection coat, whereas the MIST-N-SHINE will be more short term.

You could also use both if you wanted to, putting down the protector coat with SHINE MASTER and then a quick spray with the MIST-N-SHINE Detailer, but you must be certain to use the MULTI-FIBER cloth. If you don’t, you’ll wind up with a lot more work and oily residue to remove.

WIZARDS^® SHINE MASTER™ POLISH & BREATHABLE SEALANT is a one step cleaner, polish and breathable paint sealant.  It is recommended as a wax replacement, swirl mark remover or finishing glaze by hand or machine for the professional body shop technician as well as the average consumer. This polish contains a special polymer blend that provides an impressive high gloss on all types of paint: factory, custom, foreign and domestic. SHINE MASTER is safe and recommended for clear coats, stripes and decals.  It also performs excellent on fiberglass, lexan, plexiglass and other non-porous surfaces.

This unique formula is NOT water-soluble and won’t wash away like most hand glazes and waxes. Its waterproof UV barrier protects from hard water spotting, acid rain, sun fading and more.

SHINE MASTER is body shop recommended as the finishing step to the WIZARDS TURBO CUT and FINISH CUT buffing system. It contains no wax or free silicones and has been safely applied to freshly painted surfaces in shops for years.

SHINE MASTER’s ease of use, gloss, and durability truly makes it the professional’s first choice. 

If you can use any type of swirl mark remover, hand glaze or wax you can use SHINE MASTER.  Just remember to follow paint manufacturers’ recommended dry times and don’t rush the process.

You mean SHINE MASTER can be used instead of a wax, or a hand glaze?

Absolutely. SHINE MASTER can replace several products and provide excellent protection. Even though it is not a wax, it can be used as a wax replacement. Actually many professional shops recommend this product to their customers simply because it is easy to use, has an awesome gloss and customers love it. They always come back for more, and tell their friends.

If SHINE MASTER protects like a wax doesn’t it seal off the fresh paint? How does the paint dry??

Great question! SHINE MASTER is a breathable polymer sealant. What this means is that the protective qualities are in the plastic family but they are not a film former. It does not totally encase the finish. It provides a micro thin layer of polyethylene polymer that creates a shingling effect with the ability to protect from the environment, but still allows the solvents to escape. Another example would be like a teepee that lets the smoke out, but won’t let the rain in.

If it’s in the plastic family, and won’t wash away like hand glazes, how do you get it off, if you have to apply striping or do some paint work?

Not a problem at all. You don’t need a special product just to get it off.

Simply use any type of grease, wax or tar remover available at any paint jobber or retail store, with an automotive or paint department. The body shops generally use the regular pre-cleaner or solvent recommended by the paint manufacturers, or the WIZARDS POWER CLEAN all-purpose cleaner.

OK, that sounds great, what’s the best way to use it?

To use the SHINE MASTER be sure to shake the bottle before using, apply the product to the applicator and spread evenly onto a clean and cool surface. I like to use the BLUE WIZARDS hand pad. The hand pad allows you to apply the product evenly, it is gentle on the paint, and eliminates the possibility of pushing too hard with your fingers.

Couldn’t you do the same thing with a regular cloth?

Well, you certainly can use a cloth, but with the pad, you can do a better job. Some people will not hold their hand flat and they will be applying the product with their fingers.  That’s not the right way to do it. With the pad, the pressure of application is spread over a larger area. If I am working on something that needs more polishing, like a scratched area or faded paint, I think a cloth will help to restore that area faster because most cloths are a little more aggressive. 

Just about any type of cloth will work for the application; however you do want to use a small piece, folded to fit in your hand. That way you have more control and won’t be wasting a lot of product by soaking it up a big towel.

 That is why I like using the RYMPLE CLOTH. This cloth is a purified cheesecloth.  It has a hundred pieces per roll, and because they’re pre cut, you always have just the right size, and won’t have any lint residue from a cut edge.

When using the cloth I always like to dampen it first.  Like I mentioned earlier, always apply the product directly to the cloth and not to the surface itself.  

Why is it important to put it on the cloth and not the car?

It’s always a good idea to put it on the cloth for a few reasons. First of all you won’t be using as much SHINE MASTER. For example, when you squirt it on the hood, chances are that the engine has created a lot of heat. The paint will be hot and the product will dry before you have a chance to spread it out. So now you’ve wasted product, there’s more powder dust to remove and you will be rubbing longer to get it off. 

It’s best to hold your hand as flat as possible to the surface, and work the product in a circular motion.  Do a panel at a time. For example, apply the SHINE MASTER to the fender and then to the door. By that time the fender will dry to a light white haze. Then simply wipe it off to a beautiful gloss.

Some people like to do the whole vehicle and then wipe it off, if that works for you, great; personally, I think it’s easier to do a better job a panel at a time.

What are you using to remove the polish? That’s not a regular cloth.

No, it’s our WIZARDS FOAM TOWEL; after the polish dries we recommend the foam towel for removal. It is very soft and gentle to the finish.

So you’re saying the best combo would be the FOAM HAND PAD and TOWEL?

Yes, definitely that would be your best choice, especially on the darker colors.

What about the RYMPLE CLOTH, or the traditional cotton cloth, diaper or bath towels?

Sure, they work fine for lighter colors, or most fully cured paints; however, when you’re working on fresh paint or a custom finish, the foam is going to work the best to eliminate any fine line scratches that the other cloths may give you.

One thing I like to do on the removal stage, whether I’m using the FOAM TOWEL or the RYMPLE CLOTH is to spray the cloth with just a mist of water.  This acts like a magnet and eliminates any possible dusting or powdering that may be left around door handles or panel edges. Be sure not to overdo it though. If you get it too wet it can get a little smeary. If that happens, use another towel and let that one dry for a while.

Another option for removal is the WIZARDS MULTI-FIBER CLOTH; however, it must be washed after use (when used with SHINE MASTER). 

Isn’t it a good idea to wash all cloths or towels after they’re used?

For the best results you should always use a clean cloth, but if you continue to use the MULTI-FIBER with the SHINE MASTER without washing, it will have a tendency to get a little gummy.

You’ve mentioned darker colors a few times, I’ve had trouble with some products streaking on my black Durango; will I run into that with the SHINE MASTER?

I’ve used and tested a lot of products through the years, and SHINE MASTER is one of best to use on black. Because all paints are not the same, some are going to require a little more attention to achieve that “ultra show gloss”. Sometimes when the humidity is high or it’s extremely hot, it may take a little more rubbing than normal to get it off.

If you would ever run into an application that wanted to leave a shadow or was more difficult to remove, you can wipe the surface down with a wet cloth. What happens is the fluids begin to dry at different rates, thereby leaving a streak until it dries. By wiping it down, you’re balancing out that dry time.

What about faded or dull paint? How does the SHINE MASTER work for that?

 When working on faded or oxidized paint, you always want to “rub in” a small test area first. This will determine how much you will have to apply yourself to do the job. I’ll work in one area real hard just to see what it takes to bring out the shine. After working that area, (about the size of a football) you want to take a good look at what you’ve done. Sometimes you realize that you can back off a little, and sometimes you may have to rub it some more. When polishing on faded or dull paint the RYMPLECLOTH will help to bring it up a faster, because it is a little more aggressive than the foam pads.

What do you do if you rub real hard and it isn’t giving you the result you want?

If the polish isn’t giving you the result you want, then you’ll want to use to the FINISH CUT compound.  Or if it’s really bad, the TURBO CUT, which is more aggressive.

If it looks faded, why not just start out with the compounds, why test with the SHINE MASTER?

Because a lot of times it’s hard to tell how the paint will respond, and you never want to take off more paint than you have to. You always want to start with the least aggressive product first. Sometimes it can be more work to take out the scratches from a more aggressive compound, than it would be to polish a little more with the SHINE MASTER.

What can I expect for durability? How long is it going to last? 

On average you can expect about 3 to 6 months protection. But you have to consider how the product was applied, what condition the finish was in and what it’s been exposed to. A question I have is: How do you know if it’s protecting?

What do you mean? Give me an example.

For example, if the paint is faded and you don’t completely remove the oxidized paint, the application will not bond. A finish exposed to salt spray on the way to work and harsh chemicals at the (nylon brush) car wash is going to dull out much faster than the car driven by a little old lady from Pasadena.

Some people have the mistaken idea that if water doesn’t bead, then the product didn’t last. First of all the SHINE MASTER does need some time to cure. It can take 24 to 48 hours for it to fully cure, depending on the weather and temperature. If you’re in the rain, the morning after you polished the car you see the beads running off the hood. Then you wash it with hard water and it doesn’t bead. Remember, soft water is going to be much gentler than hard water. Just like on our skin.

SUPREME SEAL™

SUPREME SEAL is a durable paint sealant, engineered to bond to paint with a tight "micro sealing" process. This tough "show gloss" acrylic sealer cures to protect your paint from natural elements as well as conditions such as hard water spotting, acid rain, factory fallout, road contaminants and sun fading.

SUPREME SEAL is not a wax; it will not yellow or melt out, which makes it more compatible to bond with today's acrylic paints.

SUPREME SEAL is safe and recommended for all types of cured paint (30/60 days), clear coat, stripes and decals. It performs excellently on fiberglass, gel coat, lexan and most hard, non-porous surfaces.

SUPREME SEAL delivers a gentle polishing action, helping to remove slight contaminants and level the surface. It is very easy to apply and remove.

NOTE: If needed, for scratches, blemishes or fading, pre-clean with WIZARDS SCRATCH REMOVER #11049.

DIRECTIONS:
Shake bottle well before use.
Apply SUPREME SEAL to a clean and cool surface, pouring onto a small cloth or hand pad. Apply to one panel at a time, using front-to-back or circular overlapping motions, whichever works best for your paint.
Let dry and remove with a clean MULTI-FIBER cloth #11420 or cotton cloth, inspecting as you go, to assure even application and removal.

OPTION: If desired, SUPREME SEAL can be applied with an orbital (DA) buffer using WIZARDS MINI BUFFING KIT #11250.